Unfortunately, it won’t let you set a maximum aperture for that data, nor is the focal length for adapted lenses taken into account when the camera calculates the shutter speed required with Auto ISO, instead defaulting to 1/30 sec regardless of the lens used. In this way, the focal length is recorded in the EXIF data, which makes it nice for keeping track of shots with various non-native lenses. One other nice feature is the ability to set the focal length in the menus for adapted lenses. I fooled around with it for a while, but have ended up ignoring it, as I shoot RAW 99% of the time and just take care to preserve the highlights, since I know how much I can bring up shadows on the X-E1. It might be useful for some and it can expand JPEG dynamic range at the expense of noise.
RAW CONVERSION ISO
There’s a ‘Dynamic Range’ setting that will allow you to essentially underexpose a shot at higher ISO and then bring the shot up in camera, thus getting more highlight room and pulling the RAW info out of the shadows.
RAW CONVERSION HOW TO
For those who don’t have or don’t know how to use any image stitching software, this might be useful, but it requires that you’re using a fast shutter speed so you don’t get any camera shake in the images, and it’s somewhat awkward and can make even the Fuji’s quiet shutter feel loud when you are using the panorama for interior shooting. There are some other features that are worth a mention, but not real in-depth discussion: First, the X-E1 has a built-in panorama mode that will take a slow burst of images while you pan and stitch them into a single image. Plus, the in-camera JPEG engine is so good that sometimes you just want to let the camera do it and not worry about it any more. It’s less of a hassle than developing RAW files on a tablet. I find myself using this feature if I’m going to be away from my computer for a while, as I can simply process a good image as a JPEG and transfer that to my iPad to edit further or upload. In any case, the RAW file remains untouched. IF you like the look, you can confirm, and it will save it, or you can go back and make changes before saving the final image. Select these conditions, press Q and your new JPEG is created. For instance, you can shoot color, then go into the camera’s RAW conversion (simply by pressing Menu during review), and do such things as pull the exposure 2/3 of a stop, increase shadow contrast and process in black and white with a yellow filter. One very useful feature on the Fuji X-E1 is the ability to shoot RAW, and at any point, make a JPEG from that RAW file, with whatever shooting parameters you like. In-Camera RAW Conversion Fujifilm X-E1’s in-camera RAW conversion
6Image Quality: Resolution, Dynamic Range and Color.
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